Victoria with local children, Lake Victoria

On June 12th, 2008 we left for East Africa to celebrate the 50th birthday of Kim and our friends Sheila and Andrew Kennett. Our journey was an unforgettable three weeks taking us to both Tanzania and Rwanda. The natural beauty and wildlife in these countries and, the plight of their peoples, left a poignant and lasting mark on us.

Our journey really began six months earlier when planning commenced. Our itinerary was to include the highlights of Northern Tanzania (The Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti), Mountain Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda, Selous National Park in Southern Tanzania and Zanzibar. We would be taking a total of 13 flights and spending a week in transit on the “endless plains” viewing African game. Before leaving Canada we would need to complete multiple vaccinations and have gear prepared for both warm and cold weather conditions. It truly was an exercise in planning.

The big departure day finally arrived and armed with our Tilley hats and the mandatory single duffle bag (1 per person), we were off. Our international travels went very smoothly and before we knew it we were greeted by our local guide in Arusha, Tanzania. At this time we knew our decision to travel privately versus joining a tour group was a wise one. It looked like the Toyota Land Cruiser, driven by our knowledgeable Tanzanian guide Kessy would be the perfect set up for we four Canadians. It was to be our home for the next week as we toured Northern Tanzania.

Our first stop was signed “the eighth wonder of the world”! Would the Ngorongoro Crater live up to this claim? As the road climbed higher and higher we pondered this question. Our guide books explained that 2.5 million years ago a volcano erupted at this site, leaving in its wake an enormous 600m deep, and 19–kilometre wide crater (caldera)... the largest unbroken and unflooded caldera in the world! Finally we reached our summit and the views were truly unforgettable. Far below us a patchwork of green and golden hues stretched to the horizon and in the middle a silvery lake shimmered in the light. With binoculars we could see at the lakes edge nature’s pointillism... each of the million dots a single flamingo. We couldn’t wait for our first safari the next day.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

As dawn rose so did we and it was truly cold and misty from the elevation we were at. I thought Africa meant sweltering heat but there I stood with my wool hat, fleece jacket and rain gear waiting for the sun to rise! As we descended into the crater it warmed up and our anticipation level soared. This was the home of 25-30,000 large mammals and as we drove lower the specks we viewed from above took on shapes and, suddenly there we were surrounded by wildebeest and zebra! Over the next six hours all the wildlife we could ever hope to see paraded before our eyes. There is no wonder the Ngorongoro Crater is a World Heritage Site.

The wonders of East Africa’s wildlife continued to unfold as we drove to the Serengeti (siringet is the homeland of the Maasai people their “place where the land runs on forever”). We had hoped to see the Great Migration where over a million animals are on the move seeking lush grasslands which follow the long rains in Tanzania and Kenya. We had timed our trip to be there for this spectacle and we were not disappointed... the wildebeest were on the move! The parade of these funny looking creatures stretched from one horizon to the other and the sounds of their call filled the air. Unlike the human race, the male wildebeest are noisier than the females as they cry out to their potential mates, “hurry up and move along”! Males will have traveled twice the distance of the females as they circle and race back and forth through the pack demonstrating their strength and leadership. The zebras, who are their traveling companions on this journey, watch their antics and look out for the herd. Apparently wildebeest have poor vision and a symbiotic relationship exists between the two species... the wildebeest has better hearing and thus a natural partnership exists between these unlikely pair.

We spent a total of 5 nights in the Serengeti and this was more than ample time to spend the mornings viewing game and the afternoons relaxing. Our one attempt at a late afternoon safari was thwarted by the infamous tse tse fly! They actually swarmed our moving vehicle and hysteria almost broke out as we tried to out race them. The black cloud was gaining on us as Kessy instructed Kim and Andrew to close the roof. Sheila and I secured all the windows successfully but the pop up roof was jammed! The flies were soon on us and of course I was the only one who received a bite. Kessy assured us they carried no disease in the Serengeti though in other parts of Africa they were the cause of sleeping sickness. Of course, I then pretended to nod off into a deep slumber which caused feigned alarm in our group!

During these lazy afternoons I must account for our time too. I received the title as “librarian” for our group as my baggage was the heaviest (due to my last visit to the fantastic Vancouver travel store “Wanderlust”). I came armed with guide books, maps, field guides and reference books on East African wildlife. This was nothing though compared to my new collection of biographical books on life in these countries. So, you can imagine the scene as we became armchair travelers at the side of the hippo pool. Our reading journey took us through the likes of I Dreamed of Africa, The White Masai and North of South. Reading was not our only afternoon past time though as kept up our travel journals, enjoyed playing card games and edited the fantastic collection of photographs being taken.

Hot Air Balloon Safari over the Serengeti

We were now really rested and ready for the next step of our trip. However, before I describe our travels in Rwanda, I should mention another highlight of the Serengeti... our hot air balloon ride. Imagine the thrill of joining 12 other passengers in the darkness of early morning at a deserted field. From the headlights of the vehicles the uninflated balloon lying limp on the earth, its large wicker basket tipped on its side. Would we safely be lifted into the sky by this balloon fondly called “Tembo” (the Swahili word for elephant)? Our group was greeted by our pilot and given instructions on how to load the basket. Considering its position sideways on the ground this take-off seemed a little unorthodox!! However, sure enough as the balloon filled and rose, the basket tipped up and we were soon standing up photographing the sunrise which was timed perfectly for this departure. The journey was so beautiful and gave us an aerial view of herds of gazelles, buffalo and elephant often spooked into flight by the sound of the burner. This definitely was a time of introspection and delight.

Traditional Basket Making, Rwanda

Rwanda was our next stop. I admit we were apprehensive about traveling to this country but we were passionate about seeing mountain gorillas, the World’s rarest primate. However, after our journey we realized how misinformed we were about this “Land of 1000 Hills.” This clarity started with the greeting by our new charismatic Rwandan guide Patrick. As he drove us from the capital city Kigali to the Volcanoes National Park we marveled at the cleanliness of the city streets, the picturesque terraced farmland and the people who walked along the side of the road as we zoomed along. The Rwandese showed such purpose and vitality as they balanced heavy loads on their heads including bananas, water containers, sacks of potatoes and bundles of sticks. The women wore their bright traditional robes and most everyone had a smile or wave in return for ours.

From both Patrick's, and our visit to the Kigali Memorial Centre, we learned more about the tragedy of the Rwandan genocide 14 years ago (during which time 800,000 people were massacred in 100 days). It was so uplifting to see that since then many vital reforms have been made. Their popular government has taken many small steps to create the Rwanda we were now seeing. This included monthly public duty where all citizens work toward cleaning up their communities, a ban on the use of plastic bags and a ban on the use of charcoal for fuel (the latter reforms essential in the protection of their remaining forests). Beneath the surface, poverty prevails but the pride the Rwandese feel for their country is truly evident.

The Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is just one of three parks protecting the vital gorilla sanctuary of the Virunga Mountains (just 8% lies in Rwanda, 80% in the DRC with the rest in Uganda). In Rwanda, it is true visitors pay $500 per day to see the Mountain Gorillas, of which there are just 700 left on this planet. After our encounter we felt it was a small price to pay for our enlightenment and the promise we made to share their survival story with family and friends.

Kim with Mountain Gorilla Silverback “Sabinyo”

Our trekking party was comprised of 8 visitors, two park rangers and two armed soldiers. We hiked together through the farming lowlands for an hour until we reached the densely forested Virunga Mountains. Here we were joined by a team of 6 trackers who were successful in locating the gorilla families we were to observe for a daily limit of one hour. The first morning we spent with the Sabinyo Family (led by a 230kg silverback) and, the next morning with the large and playful gorilla family called Group 13 (which included a 3 month old baby)! We were instructed to keep a distance of 7 metres from the gorillas at all times for their wellness. However, with their movement which was often in our direction, we were temporarily within arms reach of our nearest primate relative! It was very exciting to say the least.

When we finally had to leave I really became misty eyed for having witnessed this powerful and yet vulnerable creature. We must all hope for their preservation especially in the Congo’s Virunga National Forest. Here an illegal charcoal trade is causing the decimation of the hardwood forest. In 2007 the battle over this profitable trade, and corruption within the national park system, led to the killing of 7 mountain gorillas. The July 2008 National Geographic magazine article, “Who Murdered the Virunga Gorillas?” should be read by all who are interested in this subject. You can access the article and video at their website www.ngm.com

Our departure from Rwanda was very eventful to say the least. Due to scheduling changes our flight was missed. The next available flight out of Kigali was in three days time and only one hotel room was left in the city for the night! “We’ll take it,” was our quick response while our local tour operator, Primate Safaris, tried to solve our transportation difficulties. This was the one time when we truly realized the value of working with The ARP Group out of the UK. They paid for a charter flight for our group of four to leave the following morning. We were on to the final leg of our journey in Southern Tanzania.

Beneath the Baobab Tree, Selous National Park

Selous National Park was our destination. This location was included in our itinerary as it is known to be pristine wilderness being Africa’ largest national park and having very little tourist traffic. It represented a different eco-system as the area we were visiting was positioned on the mighty Rufiji River. Our expectations were again met as we enjoyed exhilarating river boat excursions. Here we dodged hippos and crocodiles, came face to face with a buffalo cooling himself in the fast flowing river and languorously viewed hundreds of bee catchers. These beautifully colored birds had made their homes in the steep riverbank sides and it was a delight to watch them dart in and out of their sandy dwellings.

Our trip to Tanzania ended with three days in Zanzibar. We visited Stone Town and took from it a sense of its exotic past (sultans and spices), and horrific history (Livingstone and slavery). The dhows bobbing in the Indian Ocean were truly a romantic site but for the most part the town appears to be in an advanced state of neglect for one so famous. Stone Town is now a UNESCO’s World Heritage site which should attract funding to help restore this city to its former magnificence. We saw the beginning of this revitalization as the main harbour front was behind scaffolding as work commenced to make this town a more attractive destination. In the meantime garbage collects on many street corners.

Dhow, Stone Town waterfront

Our journey home was time for quiet reflection. I believe we had a truthful encounter with the East African countries of Tanzania and Rwanda. As tourists we beheld the natural beauty of this land and marveled at the wildlife. Lions, elephant, gazelles, gorillas and acacia trees would be personal reminders of this journey. However, as human beings we left with some pathos as we had witnessed the human struggle for existence by the African people. Maasai village and shanty town visits had opened our eyes to the plight of a third of the Tanzanian population which live below the UN’s dollar-a-day poverty line; where over half lack access to safe water, one in seven children die before the age of five and life expectancy is under 50 years. One could never leave a country with such a reality and comment only on the abundance of wild life viewed. We truly leave as more global citizens with a quiet gratitude about the place we call home.